• Setting up the right Aquarium for you

Aquarium basics for the first time fish keeper

There are some basics, everybody should know. Things you will need or should at least consider in starting up a new fish tank.

New Tank Cycling
Let's talk about one of the most frequent mistakes made by first-time aquarists - New Tank Syndrome. Because the success of our aquarium depends on living bacteria, the aquarist not only has to know how to keep fish alive, he or she also has to know how to keep bacteria alive.

Choosing your fish tank/hood/light
In general, the larger the tank, the better your chances of success. On the other hand starting with a smaller size tank may be wise for beginners because if something should go wrong you lower the cost of your losses with a smaller tank. Read more about choosing your fish tank Set up your tank, let it run for a few days while you scour the fish stores or the internet for the fish that you like. Make a list of the ones you like and make sure the fish is suited to your PH, GH and tank size. Don't mix tropicals and coldwater fish. Always research fish before buying. Take it slow, 2-3 fish to begin with (unless you have a really large setup) and let the tank cycle. Once the cycle is completed (0 ammonia, 0 NitrIte and readable nitrates) you can add more (assuming more fit in your tank). Remember to acclimate fish to your water. It may not match the stores water! To do this: float the bag of fish for 10 mins in the tank, unopened. Then open bag, and add some of your tank water and let them get used to it. Net fish and place in tank. NEVER EVER add fish store water to your tank. It may contain diseases and illnesses that you don't want. All new fish should be quarantined if you were able to pick up a small QT tank. This will keep sickly fish store fish, from contaminating your tank.

Filters, adequately or oversized for the tank you choose?

The best kinds will have three-part filtration: Mechanical (for catching floating stuff and sucking of foods/wastes), Chemical (carbon for removal of odors and organic compounds) and Biological (biofiltration should be seperate from mechanical - meaning there should be a filter pad and an additional sponge or biowheel for the biobugs, see "New Tank Cycling" for more information). Do not change any filter media while cycling. If you chose a filter with a sponge or biowheel, when the filter needs cleaning, just remove, rinse in tank water you removed after a water change and replace. Do not rinse anything else. Read more about cleaning your aquarium filters

Water Quality
Fish live in water. Whatever is in the water will get into the fish. Not only that, but the water is the same water in which the fish go to the bathroom. That bring us to the problem of biological remove the ammonia and using aquarium filter systems to remove ammonia from you aquarium.

Water Change Procedure

You can change as much or as little of the aquarium water as you like. As a general guide, remove one quarter to one third of the water and replace it with clean water. You will need buckets for water changes, or you may use a gravel vac or Python (appropriately sized for your tank and how far you'll need to go to siphon outdoors if you want). It is your option - if you choose a long gravel vac, and the tank's high enough, you can siphon water right out the window into your yard or flower bed or whatever. But you may need buckets to refill your tank afterwards. The water you use to refill the tank must be free of chlorine, oxygenated or aeration, and the same temperature as the water in the tank.  A broad use water conditioner that conditions for Chlorine, Chloramine, and heavy metals. Avoid ammonia reducing or detxifying agents. Avoid PH adjusters, your PH is likely fine where it is as long as its between 6.0 and 9.0. keep an eye on your ammonia levels. If levels reach 1.0 or above, its time for a waterchange. The same goes for NitrIte levels above 2.0. The higher your PH level, the lower your tolerance for ammonia should be. 1.0 is a more acceptable number at a PH of 7.0 than it is at 8.0. Its hard to keep it in an entirely safe level while cycling, but don't be afraid to change water. Test Kits: In order of importance: PH (possibility of hydrogen), ammonia, NitrIte, NitrAte, GH (general hardness) and KH (carbonate hardness).

• You will also need the following items:

Foods appropriate for the fish you choose

Heater (for tropical tanks) will depend on the type of fish you choose, and what the room temps in your house are consistently set at.

Substrates - there are lots of choices here, lighter colors tend wash out the fish's colors, but can still be very pretty. Choose substrates that are inert - meaning they won't alter water chemistry. Stay away from coral gravels, dolomite gravels, aragonite, and live sands and seashells. These are best suited to specific setup ups, like brackish, marine or african cichlids. The thickness of an unplanted tank, should be 1" or less, for plants 2-4" should suffice. If you're planning a planted tank substrate should be layered, with a bottom layer of finer substrates first, like laterite, kitty litter, flourite mixed with a handful of peat moss works really well. Topped with a layer of gravel or larger sand wil make a great planting substrate. If you know you want live plants, plan for this prior to setting up the tank. It is a pain to re-do everything once its setup and fish are in the tank. Some folks go bottomless with their tanks , no substrate at all - this is also fine.
 

Small quarantine tank w/ sponge filter (this can be a tank, or even a rubbermaid container that you'd store sweaters in!)

Many of the above items will come in new tank kits. You can buy the tank/hood, filter, heater together with a sample pack of fish food, and the test kits will often come in multi packs, but you may have to pick up one or two seperate. Fish stores will test your water for you for free, usually - so take your time picking up your test kits - don't go breaking the bank or anything.